Once the wrapper is removed, Valrhona doesn't fail to please the eyes; indeed, the bar is visually very pleasing, bearing few defects, the usual radiant gloss, and a lovely pink shade to further heighten excitement yet at the same time cause room for concern. Could it be too light? The slab reveals an aroma that is also light on the nose with upfront floral notes and mild herbal nuances. Calm and complacent, it’s not strong or dominating but it’s almost too gentle and subtle in character to evoke an overly delightful reaction.
The length takes its time to develop, and first on the scene is a mild chocolatiness cowering in the background. Pink floral notes (jasmine, maybe some rose) join in to continue this light tone, and quickly I realize that Valrhona wants to smother us with finesse. So far, this is very peaceful and serene, presenting a flavor that can be taken in large doses, so heed this warning if you're seeking a strong chocolaty punch. The length continues with this light-as-a-feather likeness with brown sugar notes peaking in along the way, and then the chocolate finishes with a stronger note of cocoa and a lingering, yet calm, chocolaty presence...finally. The texture is a tad gritty, reminding me quickly of some of the Amedei and Chocovic bars, which actually seems to enhance the brown sugar notes, thus producing a more sugary taste and feel on the palate.
Everything about this chocolate is light and timid, which can ultimately mislead the unaware taster of a cocoa content significantly less than 71%, especially since the chocolaty impact is far removed from the overall experience, only showing itself towards the end of the length. Ultimately, this is like a feather falling gracefully from the sky, caught in the wind and descending with glacial speed, reluctant to meet its imminent earthly impact. Indeed, the gentility of this chocolate is actually somewhat remarkable and should appeal to those who prefer a less aggressive approach, perhaps for those who adore pillows, flowers, puppies, and peaceful walks through the park on a breezy summer day. But for those seeking intensity, look elsewhere because Le Noir Amer 71% will hardly satisfy anything beyond a sweet tooth.
Essentially, this is a chocolate for a wine enthusiast who seeks the flavor components and not so much the actual chocolatiness that so crucially defines and underlies a chocolate. In this respect, Le Noir Amer 71% is a worthy introduction to mediate the transition from wine to chocolate, and definitely a worthy candidate to introduce wary palates to the 70% range, but certainly bars like this are not a reference point to which others should be judged. Overall, it's a good effort with good flavor, but in the end it leaves you empty and craving something more.
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