Despite Chuao's legendary reputation, it's far from immune to the effects of Amedei's new processing standard, which in this case, is the omission of lecithin. Intense swirling and bubbling mar the uneven surface, but luckily, the color more than compensates for these misgivings. Blazing with bright red, perhaps mahogany or a deep shade of cherry, Chuao's color still looks as ravishing as ever. The aroma is magnificent and multifaceted, slowly unfolding its many layers of complexity, thereby allowing you to tease apart its manifold nuances. Overall, it's strong, black, and piquant, as raisins and molasses dominate, with subtler notes of berries and vanilla adding depth and contrast.

Molasses storms in right away and sets the stage for an entirely blackened flavor of poignant fruit; forthright and domineering, it's an unmistakable and assertive flavor that packs an acrid punch. Next are tart plums and blueberries and then a resurgence of molasses that envelops the tongue and sends the fruit right through the length, picking up blackberries and almonds in the meantime, while spicy raisins further advance an overall blackened flavor. While the omission of lecithin may have marred the surface, it drastically improved the texture by creating a considerably thick but smooth consistency. Indeed, Amedei's texture has never been better and can now be associated with the same level of smoothness of other higher tier chocolatiers.

Chuao is a ferocious deluge of blackened fruits and molasses, poised to trample all timid palates that dare stand in its path. It's strong and intense, a chocolate without reservations. Unarguably, it's one of the most intense 70% chocolates on the market today, and with a flavor this complex, this commanding, this divine, the price tag that each 50g bar demands is without a doubt a justifiable price to pay for a glimpse into heaven.

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Upon unwrapping, the bar looks very well-made. If there is the barest trace of moulding marks on the back of the bar, and perhaps a very few bubbles, it's extremely minor - a level typical of the very best, most conscientious finishing. The colour is gorgeous, a dark, alluring terra-cotta that has the sheen of a perfect temper.

Aroma is powerful and characteristic of a Chuao, with a predominant blackstrap molasses twang, accented with highlights of coffee and olives. It's immediately apparent that this is going to be one strong chocolate.

The immediate flavour is strikingly delicate - a strawberries and cream taste typical of high-grade Criollos. But then the brute strength of the Chuao bean takes over, intense, blueberry and coffee that simply mounts in strength with each passing moment. At the end there is a characteristic bitter kick, not at all harsh or unpleasant but once more one of the signatures of Chuao. Needless to say the length is immense and durable - molasses and blueberries mingling in the mouth for many minutes after finishing the bar. Texture is excellent - very creamy and smooth, but not quite perfectly smooth, in what appears to be a stylistic choice rather than a process defect. Strong stuff - not for the timid. In many ways a challenging chocolate but indisputably a magnificent one.

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