Lindt package their chocolate well - sealed foil inside box, and one might hope the chocolate is up to the packing. The initial appearance, however, isn't promising: the bar has that same ebony-black as the 99%, differentiating it from the US version of the 85%, compared to which it also has a subtly different mould pattern. The bar is immaculately formed, literally blemish-free, although temper is a bit flat.

Aroma starts to liven expectations, although it, too, is very dark, coffee prevailing, but with hints of blueberry and chestnut reminiscent of the US version. Vanilla also features quite prominently, and it seems as though the chocolate should end up very much like its cousin. Disastrously, however, all similarities end with the flavour. A brief refreshing spike of melon instantly disappears to be replaced by...The Void. It's as if Lindt disposed of the flavour into some strange black hole. At best it might be called woody or dusty, but even that is pushing it: the bar is essentially flavourless. It's hard to know what to make of the flavour: it isn't actually off-putting as such - in the same way that something equally flavourless, say, a scoop of vegetable fat, isn't completely inedible, but that being said, it rather misses the purpose of chocolate. Strange, too, that in a bar in its US incarnation they could make be almost the essence of chocolatiness Lindt could in the European version make the essence of nothing.

Texture, too, isn't really up to snuff for an 85%: it's on the average side, slightly dry and dusty. Why, exactly, Lindt chose to use a different formula for the European market is absolutely baffling in view of their superb US effort and the equally failing-to-be-superb Euro equivalent. One is left at a particular loss when one considers that in the stereotypical perception at any rate, Europeans are seen to be the more discerning customers. Even if they aren't, though, there is literally no excuse for substituting something so poor for a great chocolate. Lindt should pull their Euro bars, substitute the US chocolate as their global recipe, and kill 2 birds with 1 stone, cutting production costs while improving quality.

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Lindt proves that large-scale production is not synonymous with slovenly appearance and delivers a blemish-free tablet, which at the same time lacks the professional sheen associated with higher quality chocolate. Nonetheless, Lindt marches on and dispatches a rich purple color similar to the US version. Aroma, too, is deep and rich with cherries adding depth and suggesting a powerful flavor, but unfortunately, it’s also ashy and pungent, portending an offensive and bitter flavor as a counter. So which will win?

Unfortunately, both do. Initially red like cherries and extremely chocolaty as well, the flavor proves to be quite agreeable and deeply powerful just like this level should be. A (bitter)sweet moment indeed, but things quickly turn ugly after the chocolate has time to melt a bit. The flavor accedes to bitterness and the texture turns dry in some instances, which might reflect the presence of cocoa powder.

Lindt once gave "regional difference" a whole new meaning with the UK and US versions of this bar, but now they seem to be on a level playing field, both bars bastardized by the same ingredients and processes that good quality chocolate should always forbear. Perhaps in a move to simplify processes and in turn reduce cost, Lindt had the right idea but unfortunately forgot to realize that flavor was also an important factor. Whatever happens in the future, I'm sure it can't be worse than this.

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